Rockabitmoore
#1 Posted : 30 January 2012 17:17:00(UTC)
Rockabitmoore

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Hi Andrew,[br]
[br]
as far as I know the string heights are (bottom string to top of fret at the 12th fret):[br]
LOW treble (1,2mm) / LOW bass (1,6mm)[br]
HIGH treble (2,0mm) / HIGH bass (2,4mm).
Herb Cooke
#2 Posted : 09 February 2012 05:13:00(UTC)
Herb Cooke

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I recommend to watch a LL instructor doing slow bends to compare technique. Suspecting too much tilt going on with your finger or hand ? 2mm isn't bad and shouldn't be causing this issue.

If guitar issue is suspected, there are too many possible factors. Getting a check for issues and proper setup done at the local shop will be faster then explaining the possible causes and possible remedies one by one. Also cheaper then the proper tools required if for example, the bridge radius doesn't match your neck radius. Could be just a truss rod adjustment due to the low humidity of winter.






JackDaniels
#3 Posted : 22 February 2012 19:56:00(UTC)
JackDaniels

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Vintage radius necks (like the vintage 7.25" Fender radius), or necks that have close action are inclined to have "string crash" or "fret out" issues. Personally that's why I prefer a 9.5" radius like what is used on modern Fender guitars, or a compound radius as my second selection for a radius. To some extent you do want to be able to bend under the adjacent string(s), otherwise you incur "string crash" or "fret out" issues. This is why extremely close action (and/or) fretboard radius's like the 7.25" Fender don't work for many guitarists.
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If you're a tele player that either aspires to learn, or already uses tele "country style" guitar techniques, then you might want to set your action as low as possible prior to incurring "string crash" or "fret out". For the classic tele "twang" and snap, lower action is more preferable than higher action. Lower action for a tele means better accessibility, cleaner execution of techniques, while retaining that classic tele "twang" and snap. BTW, as far as Tele guitars are concerned, never make the mistake of being talked into a Callaham tele bridge. Thickness, plating, and metal alloy of a tele bridge make HUGE differences in getting that classic tele "twang" and snap. Best choices for tele bridges are: #1 Vintage hot rolled steel (Fender 50's reisssue) OR #2 Cold rolled steel (like Glendale) this is of course depending upon your tele application.
Herb Cooke
#4 Posted : 23 February 2012 14:20:00(UTC)
Herb Cooke

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I had assumed blues players and country players liked a higher height and that higher strings had a bit more snap and twang. I stand corrected ! [br]
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Sorry Andrew if I yap on with Jack for a min. [br]
[br]
Satches JS1200 has a compound radius neck patterened after his fender strat. (can't remember the radius) His action is just under 1mm ! That way the pressure needed for legato or tapping is consistent all over the neck & less work for the fingers. There's just a hair of relief dialed in for bending. [br]
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I guess my next step should be figuring out the neck radius of all my guitars to get a sense of what is more comfortable but guessing string height and relief plays a big part. What's ideal action for one guitar prob won't be identical for all because each guitar has their sweet spot right ?[br]
JackDaniels
#5 Posted : 24 February 2012 05:58:00(UTC)
JackDaniels

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You are correct Herb. Action is a (subjective) thing, what works for one guitar won't necessarily work for another. As you say truss rod relief, humidity levels, action, fretboard radius all definitely come into play. These days with the multiple fretboard radius offerings it has never been more prevalent. All of my guitar fretboard radius's (of which I have many) vary all over the damn place. Certain situations call for certain measures, ex. my surf green strat has a Bernie Hefner flamed maple boatneck. Since it took a year or more to get the neck, when I received the neck I found that the neck had a "dip" at the 3rd fret. Rather than dress, crown, or refret the neck I decided to go with the lowest action that the neck could handle w/o issues and utilized an .011 gauge string set. Come to find out, this is how Robin Trower sets up his strats, although my situation was through necessity and not based upon Robin's setup.
[br] [br]
FWIW, in my previous post where I discussed tele bridges, I mentioned "hot rolled steel" and "cold rolled steel" tele bridges and I wanted to clarify. The early Fender Blackguard teles used "cold rolled steel" bridges before Leo figured out that he could do them cheaper by pressing the bridges out in the form of "hot rolled steel" bridge blanks. If you want to be vintage correct tonally then one of these two steel variations are what is called for. I'd choose either a '52 Fender Patent Pending reissue bridge (hot rolled) OR Glendale Vintage "Blackguard" (cold rolled). Supposedly the magnetic interaction between the bridge plate and the bridge pup's magnet field is where the magic is at. Stainless steel tele bridges (which Fender never used) can be either magnetic or non-magnetic. Non-magnetic stainless steel can cause cancellation of the bridge pup's magnetic field thereby affecting "twang" factor BUT, some guys still swear by their Glendale SS (non-magnetic) tele bridge plate. Never use Callaham bridges because the metal they use is more than vintage correct specs, and the plating is also too much which will kill the "twang" factor.
Herb Cooke
#6 Posted : 24 February 2012 16:32:00(UTC)
Herb Cooke

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Jack if you couldn't find specs on a guitar you owned how do you figure out the fret size ? I'll bet you can tell by experience but will I need a caliper ? I'll be grabbing a simple one (no dial) but in mint cond next time I'm at my moms as my dad had a few. If you asked me the one I'd want though it'd be that digital stew mac one that has the end you can put right over the fret ! [br]
[br]
Nice to see you coming in more buddy :)
JackDaniels
#7 Posted : 26 February 2012 03:44:00(UTC)
JackDaniels

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You're correct again my friend, because even if we were able to suss out the dimensions by eye from looking at the frets from the edge of the fretboard and then comparing with information such as: https://www.musikraft.com/store.php?pg1-cid47.html (bottom of page) OR http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/FretSize.aspx , then we could have fairly good vision thereby eliminating the need for tools such as calipers. Personally, I'd like to have some calipers myself truth be known. I'm wishy washy on the subject of preferred fret dimensions. As you might imagine with all the guitars that I own, I have quite a diversity of fret wire(s) on all of the aforementioned guitars (and all with varying degrees of fingerboard action). Since you're a guy after my own heart (being that you're sincerely interested in many things guitar related), I ran across an article which I think you and other guitar afficinados here at LL will appreciate, here it is:
[br] [br]
http://www.premierguitar...Affects_Your_Guitar.aspx
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Keep up the good work of expanding your guitar and amp technical skills, as well as your guitar playing skills. Thanks again for the welcome invitation, although with my currently busy schedule I don't know how often I'll be popping in (but I won't drop the ball entirely).
Herb Cooke
#8 Posted : 28 February 2012 19:23:00(UTC)
Herb Cooke

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I'll look into getting 2 case humidifiers Jack, thanks for the article :) Now I know why the fret ends on my 350dx feel a bit sharp.[br]
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Thanks for the encouragement, as usual :)[br]
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